The Perfect Fit: A Tall Man's Guide to Finding the Best Suit

Few items in a wardrobe say more about a man than his suit, yet it is often one of the most difficult to get right with all of the considerations. Successfully navigate the potholes and you may just find yourself auditioning as the lead in the next James Bond movie. Get it wrong, and you may just never hear back from that interview and can kiss goodbye to landing the high-flying executive position you so desperately wanted.

As you can see, the stakes are already pretty high for the average man but throw in some unique challenges that come with being tall and you have a potential recipe for what is known as a walking disaster. However, threat not, as this comprehensive guide will walk you through the essentials and offer solutions to help you find the perfect suit, tailored specifically for your height and style.

By the end of this journey, you'll be well-equipped to stand tall, exuding confidence and style in your well-fitted suit. Oh, and if you ever get a call to be the next 007 as a result, don’t forget to give us a shout out.

A great fitting suit can make all the difference

Understanding the Basics of Suit Fit

It’s important to understand the basics of suit fit and explore styles that complement your tall frame as this will serve as your foundation for making informed choices.

Suit Jacket

Jacket Length

The jacket's length is a critical aspect of achieving a well-proportioned look for tall men. Finding a jacket that is both long enough to cover your torso and is proportionate to your height can be a real struggle. The hems of men’s suit jackets have gotten shorter over time, but the golden rule of length still applies in that your jacket’s hem should only just cover the pockets of your trousers, which helps create a balanced look.

Shoulder Fit

Proper shoulder fit is essential in achieving a well-fitted suit that allows for comfortable movement. You should be able to raise your arms without the jacket feeling tight or constricting and the shoulder seam should align with your natural shoulder line and rest where it ends and your arms begin. Some tall men may prefer a slightly extended shoulder to create a broader silhouette, while others may opt for a more natural, streamlined look. Whatever your preference, there should be no visible wrinkles, creases, or dents across the shoulder area when you wear the jacket, otherwise, this may be a sign that the shoulders are too wide or too narrow.

Sleeve Length

Off-the-rack suit sleeves are often too short for tall men, which can lead your shirt cuffs to peek out more than is desired. A well-fitted jacket should allow around 1/4 to 1/2 inch of your dress shirt cuff to show when your arms are at your sides. Look for suit jackets that come in size L as these have longer sleeves. If they are still too short, don't fret as most jackets have extra fabric at the sleeves to allow for lengthening if needed.

A well-fitted jacket should show around 1/4 to 1/2 inch of your dress shirt cuff

Button Stance

The button stance, despite its fancy name, is simply where the waist button is located on your jacket. On a 2-button jacket it is the top-button and the middle button on a 3-button jacket. Choose jackets with a low or natural button stance, as this elongates your upper body and creates a nice-looking V shape.

Vents

The vent is a vertical slit going upwards from the bottom hem at the back of your jacket. These are functional features that are there to provide more room and flexibility. Jackets can come in three types of styles – no vent, single or double vent. Opt for suits with a double vent as these provide a good balance of style and formality.

Chest Space

You should be able to easily insert your hand into your suit jacket when it’s buttoned up and the lapels should lie flat on your chest. If you struggle to get your hand in, then your jacket is too tight. If your hand fits snugly without excess room then the fit is right.

Trousers

Length

Longer legs unsurprisingly necessitate a longer trouser inseam, and this can be difficult to find in standard sizes. If this is the case, opt for “unfinished” trousers as they come with additional material and can be customised to the desired length. Aim for a slight break or no break at all when your trousers meet your shoes. This creates a clean, unbroken line from your waist to your shoes. Avoid trouser legs that are too long, as they can create a messy, bunched-up appearance around the ankles.

Hem and cuffs

Trousers are finished with either a hem or a cuff. A hem means a plain bottom where the fabric is folded up inside the trouser leg at the desired length. In contrast, a cuff is when the fabric at the bottom is folded up on the outside, then pressed or sewn in place to create the cuff. Tall men that want to express their height should opt for trousers with a hem as turn ups can create the illusion of a shorter leg.

Finding the Right Suit Style for Your Body

When shopping for suits as a tall man, understanding which suit styles work best for your body type is essential. Your height can be an advantage when it comes to creating a powerful, commanding presence, and the right suit style can accentuate this.

Single-Breasted vs. Double-Breasted

Single-Breasted Suits: A single-breasted suit jacket typically features one to three buttons. The most common styles are two-button and three-button jackets. They create a sleek, streamlined appearance that complements your height. Modern trends have often favoured the two-button style for its classic yet contemporary look.

Double-Breasted Suits: A defining characteristic of a double-breasted suit jacket is its overlapping front panels. It features two sets of symmetrical columns of buttons, with one set serving as functional closures and the other as decorative elements. The front panels overlap and fasten with two parallel rows of buttons, creating a distinctive and elegant look. These can also work well for tall men, but it's important to find one with a well-proportioned design. Ensure the buttons are placed at the right height and avoid excessively wide lapels.

The double-breasted suit carries an air of formality and confidence about it

Slim vs. Traditional Fit

Slim Fit Suits: These are narrower across the shoulders, chest and leg, with a fitted waist. Slim fit suits can work well for tall men who want a modern and tailored look. However, be cautious not to go too slim, as overly tight suits may appear disproportionate.

Traditional Fit Suits: A traditional fit provides more room in the jacket and trousers. This style can offer comfort and a timeless appearance, ideal for those who prefer a classic look.

Vertical Stripes and Patterns

Vertical Stripes: Suits with vertical stripes or pinstripes can enhance your height by drawing the eye upward. They create a sense of elongation and add sophistication.

Subtle Patterns: Subtle patterns, such as herringbone or micro-checks, can add visual interest to your suit without overwhelming your tall frame.

Accessorise Wisely

Choose ties and pocket squares that complement your suit's colour and style. The tip of your tie should ideally end at or just above your belt line. Ties that are too short or too long can disrupt the visual balance of your outfit. Choose tie widths that are proportionate to your height and the lapel width of your suit jacket. Generally, a tie that is around 3 to 3.75 inches wide works well for most tall men.

Use accessories to compliment your outfit and express individualism

The Importance of Tailoring

While finding a suit that closely matches your measurements is a great starting point, tailoring is an important step in achieving the perfect fit for those above average height. Tailoring allows you to personalise your suit to your specific body shape and preferences, ensuring that it feels and looks as if it was made just for you. A skilled tailor will ensure that the jacket shoulders align with your natural shoulder line, the sleeves have the right length, and the jacket length is proportionate to your height.

A direct visit to a tailor is not always necessary, in most cases a well-informed sales assistant should be able to take the needed measurements and have your suit sent off to be altered by the store tailor and returned. Remember, it's better to invest in a high-quality suit and have it tailored to perfection rather than buying multiple ill-fitting suits.

Tailoring can transform an average fitting suit to a great one

Bringing it all together

Ultimately, the quest for the perfect suit for tall men is about understanding the nuances of fit, style, and individual preferences. The exploration of different suit types, from the classic single-breasted to the distinguished double-breasted and the modern slim fit, empowers tall individuals to embrace their stature with confidence and style. Tailoring, both in the construction of the suit and through expert adjustments, emerges as the linchpin in achieving the perfect fit. Also, accessories should not be overlooked as another way of expressing individualism and complementing your style.

A suit says a lot about a person, so don’t be shy in investing the time and the money to find the right one for you.